Tuesday, March 18, 2014

The Wave That Changed My LIfe.

A week after my Iloilo volunteer work, I flew in to Siargao Island... It's been a life-long dream to finally experience Siargao and boy, the weather wasn't inviting at all, our flight almost got cancelled because of a storm. Fortunately, it passed and we flew in just in time. That feeling of being in a new place with so many things to see and explore is just plain priceless. I love the unknown.

When we got there at Matanjak Guesthouse, which is owned by our local friend there Bunsoy Agudo, who I met there at General Luna through my friend, Zirk, we then got greeted by expats here and there, most of them were staying at the guesthouse as well. Upon settling my stuff in the room with Zirk and her friend Netz, who I met for the first time that day (and eventually we grew closer), I was more than excited to see what the rest of the island has to offer. I had complications with my schedule with volunteer work so I was only there for 3 days (Sucks, I know) but those days were packed with awesomeness. The first night was amazing, we were all together because it was Bunsoy's birthday, so I met tons of surfer dudes and dudettes from different parts of the world, went a bit tipsy and drove motorcycles like crazy searching for an open Karaoke spot, and for more beer, it was a bit late.

The next morning around 11am, we didn't waste time, got our asses up and went to the beach so the boat heading to Dako Island could take us to the surf spot. Me and Netz didn't get the chance to eat breakfast and I, who haven't surfed for a long time, was startled when I saw how big the waves are. They told us that the waves are just little and soft. Wow... for them it is, but for me? Hell no. It was nothing like the ones I surfed before. I didn't even know if I could do it! What I love in this surf community is that the people are only here to surf and they are serious about surfing, no one cares about the status of your surfing skills. But really... out in the water, paddling my heart out and pretending not to be scared (but deep inside it scared the shit out of me), I didn't expect that these guys would really leave me alone! ...At the last set, I was at the right place at the right time, I paddled out and then a few paddles more, this local boy passed by me and pushed my board (thank God he did!), so I rode a big wave for a few seconds then BAM! I'm wiped out. While I was redeeming my surf swag (hahaha), here comes another HUGE wave! Ellen, a Canadian dudette who I met the night before screamed "Oh my God!!", made a turtle roll... Then BOOM! I'm wiped out again. Ellen, almost hit me with her board, but we were both okay after being almost out of breath. Honestly, I thought I was going to die that moment. But the adrenaline rush was like no other. I was stoked... The thought of just being in the pristine waters of Siargao excites me, what more if you got a chance to surf a spot? Just one spot and there are loads more...

My surf and wipe out ratio - 2:1 ...nah, maybe I just got lucky. It's really 3:1 hahaha

That wave/s changed my life simply because it is the biggest one I've caught alone and it changed the way I see myself in surfing and surfing itself. It taught me to be brave and to be stronger. It made me do what I thought I couldn't do. I wanted to push myself more that day but I didn't because I was really tired that my muscles were in shock and might stop responding plus no breakfast, it is risky for me. But above all, I was really happy.

On my 2nd night, I just enjoyed the crowd at the acoustic night at Buddhas Surf Resort just beside Matanjak Guesthouse, where we stayed. And the next morning I just went to the famous boardwalk at Cloud 9 with Netz and new found friend, Pierre-Luc, a French Canadian dude. Then when we got back, I said quick goodbyes to the people I met who became friends because they were rushing to get ready and leave for another surf sesh that day. I wished I stayed another day so I could join them. But I know I will have lots of time when I get back there :)

The things I will never forget are the memories we made there. I may not meet again in my entire lifetime these people I've encountered, but I definitely won't forget them... The breakfast, lunch and dinner get-togethers, going to the market looking for a huge Mahi-mahi, the jokes, the life-stories, seeing everyone at the line-up, the crazy drunken moments and most especially the bond I have with them... To actually feel like you belong, like a family. Only difference is, it's united colors :)

I've been doing surf trips since I started surfing (I'm not saying I'm a pro, I am still learning! Haha) and searching for that perfect spot. Question is... Is Siargao the perfect spot? I don't know, but it is the best one yet... I haven't seen it all but I will know when I see it. I'll go through this process... I'll keep you posted! :) 

Oops, sorry, I don't have surf photos because everyone was out surfing... But I grab a few ones from friends' Facebooks :) enjoy...

Ikit - Bunsoy's little sister :)

My friend Zirk haha

Just chillin at the hammock at Matanjak after getting stoked.
 I got a few reef cuts and just noticed when we we're done.

With these peeps, Netz and Pierre-Luc at the 
famous boardwalk at Cloud 9 before I left.

Bunsoy and breakfast haha

Shiny beautiful people :)

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